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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.